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January 21, 2025, 04:09:12 am

Author Topic: Fuel Pump  (Read 4461 times)

W8fool

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Fuel Pump
« on: May 24, 2005, 06:41:58 am »
I have a question?  Has anyone had fuel pump issues? I think one of mine has crapped out.  Now to find a replacement.  Is it the same as in the 1UZ if it was that would make life easier. any insight please.

Capt Rick

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2005, 12:25:49 pm »
Summary of below is sometimes the lower fuel pump will sieze. Turn key on and press red button on engine. Tap the lower fuel pump this will allow the pump to run. The pumps are
2310050020   Pump,Fuel,Complete2PumpAssembly   $410.19
2310150020   Pump,Fuel,Primary,No1,TopMount   $143.94
2310150030   Pump,Fuel,Secondary,No2,BottomMount   $143.94



?   Engine Cranks, Gauges Live, No Start or tries to start but Cannot
?   Check Fuel Level to ensure that fuel is present
?   Turn key to on position and Push the red Fuel Pump activation button (located on the breaker panel on the aft top end of engine) to run pumps. Listen for a change in tone to indicate that a vapor locked condition may have been overcome.
?   Remove Access cap from fuel pulsation dampener (located on the starboard side of the engine, at the aft end of the fuel rail) and run pumps. Verify that the indicator screw in the center is popping up. This indicates that there is adequate fuel pressure to the fuel rail.
?   Unplug fuel pumps one at a time and verify operation.
?   If both pumps run, and there is no fuel pressure, check for a kinked or crimped hose (normally at rear floor panel), or a clogged filter or screen (there is a screen on the inlet to each of the 2 fuel pumps.
?   Engine Runs, and then stumbles and/or dies.
?   Check Fuel Level to ensure that fuel is present
?   Check Safety Lanyard to ensure proper installation
?   Check In-Line fuse at battery switch
?   Remove the hose that supplies fuel to the fuel water separator and hook up a new hose to a shop tank and run off of that ? if this fixes issue,
?   check the check-ball in the fuel supply fitting on the fuel tank.
?   If check ball is OK ? check the fuel supply hose. (look for the aft floor panel or fuel tank itself crimping the fuel line and also check to see if the fuel supply line is bubbled or defective internally and restricting fuel flow. This is most easily done by running a new fuel line in it?s place)
?   If the fuel supply hose is not the problem, check the pickup screen in the tank.
?   If that does not correct the condition, next try removing the hose from the output side of the fuel water separator and using a 3/8? male to male connector to bypass the filter assembly for a short time. If this corrects the issue, the fuel filter should be replaced. If not ? check the pickup screen in the input side of the fuel pump for debris
?   Next pinch the fuel return line aft of the T-joint and see if it corrects or helps the condition. If so try disabling the fuel pumps one at a time and see what difference each makes to engine performance. If disconnecting one of the 2 fuel pumps does NOT make a significant difference in engine operation, that fuel pump must be considered bad and should be replaced
?   If crimping the return line fixes the condition, but both fuel pumps are operating correctly, the fuel pressure regulator should be replaced.
?   Engine Knocks, runs and/or performs poorly
?   Check octane of fuel  - MUST run premium (92 or 93 Octane) for proper performance. If changing to premium fuel, turn off battery switch for 60 seconds to allow engine computer to recalibrate. If unable to verify this information with the customer, remove the fuel supply line from the fuel water separator and run off a shop tank with 93 octane, after having reset the computer.
?   Next pinch the fuel return line aft of the T-joint and see if it corrects or helps the condition. If so try disabling the fuel pumps one at a time and see what difference each makes to engine performance. If disconnecting one of the 2 fuel pumps does NOT make a significant difference in engine operation, that fuel pump must be considered bad and should be replaced
?   If crimping the return line fixes the condition, but both fuel pumps are operating correctly, the fuel pressure regulator should be replaced.


blindside

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2005, 17:50:58 pm »
FYI- I thought i had a fuel pump issue last year and it turned out just to be fouled plugs.  Replace those first if there is any chance at all they could be fouled.  Much cheaper and easier fix.
Brent
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2000epic

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2005, 17:52:43 pm »
thanks Capt. ?Just printed that off, laminated it, and put it in my maintainance binder
2000 Toyota E22, 3 bag 2 pump 1250# ballast system, Perfect Pass wakeboard pro, Sampson Razor tower,  2003 Silverado SS tow vehicle

Bitzco

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #4 on: May 24, 2005, 19:01:25 pm »
Capt. Rick,

So glad you are out there. Also, just curious what you think about the Perfect Pass installs. Do you see any potential problems or complications from it. Festivus and I are seriously considering the install but want to baby our boats.
03 Pilot, 01 Epic SX, 330 cc bombers and 4 kids in back. Working to retire to a lakeside cottage with my own boat dock.

Capt Rick

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #5 on: May 24, 2005, 21:25:48 pm »
Yes ,1st replace the spark plugs when the engine doesn't run right.

I have no information on Perfect pass.

lesman01

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2005, 00:59:56 am »
Bitzco, You gotta go for the PP thing. I did some serious sweatin' decided to do it. At the end of the day I convinced myself that. a) my pressure speedo was crap. b) A good glass man can patch any hole, even 2". c) My wife is much happier b/c it's an easy for her to pull me. d) PP includes the bracket that Pete designed in the install kit and calibrates the comp for a toyota.

I am meticulous about my baby, too, but this was a must, and believe it helps the value.

Plus, and most importantly, we're all behind ya!

Lesman
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Epicrider

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #7 on: May 25, 2005, 04:13:30 am »
Lesman is right...I've had a ton of compliments about how much more consistent my wake is with PP.You've got plenty of help right here.You won't regret it!
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W8fool

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #8 on: May 25, 2005, 04:31:29 am »
Hey thanks for the info. ?I think i do have a weak lower pump, but on my last test run 2 cylinders stopped, thus as you guys suspected fouled plugs.
ya much cheaper fix. ?I guess I will find out tomarrow.

thanks a bunch

festivus

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #9 on: May 25, 2005, 16:46:49 pm »
I don't know about Bitzy, he's semi O/C about his SX, but I think I'll do the right thing, bring on the pp.  Did you check on the install at MP, Bitz?  WHat was the hardware cost?
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phenom_1819

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #10 on: May 31, 2005, 20:09:03 pm »
Was talking with Terry (highflyin) this weekend and we both agreed that the jump from "wakeboard boat" to "wakeboard boat with PP" is as big of a jump as going from an I/O to an inboard.  Our PP'd Epics now handle better with the increased weight (therefore more weight can be added).  Terry's SX was throwing a fatty wake this weekend -- pics to come.  I honestly was complaining that it was TOO BIG.  I was getting booted 10+ feet into the flats.  And Blindside's NN and KDW settings are right on, mine's not floating more than about .3-.5 mph even with a full boat and ballast.  And any chump can drive (as long as they know not to powerturn).  Absolutely no regrets. 

Congrats on the decision Festivus!
Cal
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lakerats247

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #11 on: June 19, 2005, 00:28:52 am »
Cal-
Just FYI, there is a "hidden" screen in the fuel pump that is shaped like a cone. You'll find it when you pull the fuel line off of each pump, and on the input to the pump there's a small cone shaped screen. Mine was dirty once.
Also, I think the lower fuel pump is more for recirculation and primes the upper pump. This is why it's not as powerful.
-Hope that helps.

cyclone

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2008, 17:59:40 pm »
Here's a pic of the pump assembly with the "banjo" style fuel fittings circled containing the screens. You have to remove the pumps as an assembly,  (six bolts, four hoses, two plugs) then take off the boots and electrical connections at the pump to get a wrench on the pump side fitting. Pump side fittings are 19mm and outside ones are 22 and 25mm. I don't want to tear into my tested working spare right now, but you could do it yourself in an hour or two. I'd just be careful not to kink or break any of the fittings, break electrical fittings off pumps, etc.:0 Take your time.

« Last Edit: March 22, 2008, 18:07:21 pm by cyclone »
Pete

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #13 on: July 10, 2008, 23:58:04 pm »
You didn't mention what performance problems you were having.

When I bought my Epic21 new in 99 and on the very first day we took it on the lake, we got about 200 yards from the dock when the engine died.  I was able to get it back to the dock with the transmission in gear but barely any throttle.  Increase the throttle and the engine would stall.
I found out a lot about the fuel system after that because one of the pumps failed.
They designed the system with 2 pumps to try and prevent vapor lock.  It was not very successful based on my experience later on.
1999 Epic

boaterguy

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Re: Fuel Pump
« Reply #14 on: August 04, 2009, 02:08:05 am »
I have a fuel pump related problem...  '99 Epic 22, currently in the shop.  Boat stalled sporadically but ran perfectly when operational.  Boat is currently in the shop where the mechanic has determined both pumps are not working at all unless some relay is bypassed and current is passed directly into to fuel pumps.  He has fixed many connections although the problem persists.   He said it is related to the a routing of the ground, which apparently is the "switch" for the pumps, not being turned on by something or another. 

Has anyone dealt with a similar issue? and/or could this be a problem with the computer as the previous mechanic thought a computer problem could be causing many of the gauges not to work. 

Thanks for any help...