SX 22 Stock ballast system deep dive

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OK, I have deciphered the controls for the stock SX ballast system, including the level controls and indicators. My panel systems all have the ballast controls available if you decide you want to add a ballast system to a different model Epic.

The SX has a small panel near the shifter with bar graph level indicators driven by level sensors installed in the tanks near the rear of the boat. These indicators were set up in dot mode rather than bar mode, so only one LED is lit out of 10 to tell you the tank level. THese LEDs start to fail after 20 yrs, so one or two bad LEDS and your indicators don't really work anymore, the level indicator has dead spots.

With my controls, you can retain the original level indicators. I can replace them with new LED indicators that display in bar mode, which is more visible in the sun and will continue to show the level even if one or two of the leds fails. I can make them standard red, green or blue


The stock controls turn on/off two pumps and two valves. When you push Fill, three relays are set that turn on the Fill pump and open port and stbd tank valves. Drain does the same thing but uses the drain pump.

Here's where it gets weird: The other two buttons on the stock sx control are Port trim and Stbd trim. These are momentary buttons that turn on the drain pump and one valve. USELESS!!!!

So, my relay box (DECC replacement box) has enough outputs to replace the standard DECC, the SX secondary DECC (used for the SX ballast push buttons) and the third relay box that interfaces with the level controls and pumps and valves.

The controls are separated per tank, so you can fill and drain tanks independently. It will work on any millenium dash boat if you want ballast controls on dash.

Some late production X22's had hard tanks in the trunk, these were for sale from Vintage Parts for a few years. Not sure of the dimensions but would be good to see some pics if you have such a boat.

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I ended up putting my entire stock ballast system back in the boat, and replaced the pumps with new type Rule 1100's from Wakemakers. Two things I did, I put a 22.5 deg elbow on the inlet to tilt the fill pump back and create some clearance. I also cut the fill valve handle down an inch for the same reason.

This will allow you to reach the hose clamps on the tank connectors, you can loosen them and flex the entire valve, T fitting, drain pump assy to pop it loose from each tank, and then snake the whole assembly out. You have to eliminate all sources of leaks for the system to function with any reliability. you can do this easily while its out, and then you only have the tank connections to worry about. I use a small 1/4" ratchet with a 5/16" socket and am able to reach the tank connections pretty easily.

The system now fills in 20 min, and drains in about 16. My port tank takes 2 min longer.

If you have leaky tanks, its a concern but if it is not drastic you can just run the bilge pump. There's often other sources of leaks, so a little water doesn't make a lot of difference, a lot of us have dealt with leaky fat sacks before:)

There is an access plate in each tank and you could cut more if needed to get access and seal them up, if you wanted to. they are approx 40 gal tanks.

More to follow including pics.

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Well its been a couple of weeks and I’m very happy with the performance of the ballast system. It primes, fills and drains reliably. The controls shut off after 20 min which turns out to be perfect.

You can fill/drain each side independently which the original system would not do.

I think the achilles heel of the original systems was the old Rule 1100 pumps. They were fragile and had a failure point on the bottom where 4 screws held the pump together. A tiny stress crack around any of those screws will cause the system to suck air and be inop.

The new rule pumps are nylon instead of brittle polystyrene. They have been redesigned. The space is extremely limited so the new pumps fit but its tight. Putting the aforementioned elbow on the inlet pump helps create clearance and tilts the pump back so the air bubble is not captured in the pump.

I used clear 1” ID hose between the pumps so I can see if there’s flow, airlock etc.

Rick told someone I talked to to fill the SX system in the driveway via the vents and check for leaks before you spin your wheels on this. Sage advice.

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I forgot to add that the Rule pump is probably the only one that will fit in there and pump that much volume. Given that the space is so limited I think it is the best most efficient design given the constraints. Switching to impeller pumps is not easy or cheap and may not work well or reliably. Going to bigger valves/piping is very difficult due to lack of space. The original system can be disconnected from the tanks and fill pump and removed as an assembly.

If you are putting a system in a boat with no factory ballast, buy a wakemakers system. Route the hoses as shown in the factory diagrams for your boat. Notice that Toyota routes the hoses up high so the bubbles go to the high point ensuring that the pumps (floor level) will prime.