Get rid of DECC?

[Capt Rick]

2002 models have optional heaters with 3 ways switch., v drive have engine hatch up and down, x22 has fill and drain ballast,
s22 ballast has fill and drain port and starboard.

[FreeLance]

Ughhh, I have the original non-stud white wire monstrosity...  Capt Rick, are the wires still in the same order as the orange wire system with studs?

[Capt Rick]

The white only id is the position of the wire in the plug. Also the wire size is too small to handle amperage. I replace it, but it add cost to my kit .

DECC   Send PANEL W/O KEY SWITCH + DECC and 2 button wth orange wire
Rick Cohn 10200 Newington drive Orlando, Fl 32836           575.00    35.00

See my post this is for Pete

[FreeLance]

I have always wondered how these boats made it out of the factory without customers going nuts over flakey systems?

[FreeLance]

Capt. Rick, are the button/ignition panels just connected with double sided tape?  I don't see screws on the front and none in the back either, any info on how to detach and pull them out would be appreciated.

[cyclone]

the bezels are held on with dried out double sided tape. Then, there are two screws per switch module that may or may not be landed in dash material. One of mine had a square of woodgrain dash material as a "nut" on the back of the black sheet metal screws.

Taking the connections off the two button panel modules (6 and 4 button) repeatedly to test the new system, I notice that they work a lot better! no blinky as much. So, work those connectors five or eight or twenty times and see if things don't work better, won't cost you a dime.

I put the new panel in the boat, my son and I hacked up a panel to hold it, it works so far. I have not put the switch module in, waiting for an interface cable to arrive for the interface. The box connects to the panel with an ethernet cable.

The touch panel app and the functions of the computer are all working, attached are pics of the button panel app and jamming youtube videos (phone was hotspot) out on lake.

The app runs in the background to keep the button functions going. I am working on details like how it works on restart, nighttime dimming, minimize buttons etc. but so far it does what I want. I will put the relay box in when I get a few software issues like that resolved.

[FreeLance]

Thanks cyclone, I got it figured out today as well.  I decided to see what everything looked like from the switch panel to the Decc all the way to the breaker box.  All pictures attached.  I was hoping for some really good buss bars, but alas it is direct wired with double ups and daisy chains in the breaker panel.

Notice on my Decc how it is all cracked and one of the white wires goes back to the positive post.  Since the post is hot I can't for the life of me figure out why one of them would go back to hot unless some how their is a switch that is relayed that then turns on power to other switches depending if the key is on or off.  Just a guess though.

[FreeLance]

Added labels to the close up of the Breaker box.

[FreeLance]

High res of the breaker box with readable labels and breaker sizes.  Notice that the IGN and ACC both daisy chain power to 12 volt Bow, 12 volt Aft, Docking Lights, and Engine hatch.  So these probably don't work until the key is in the On or ACC position.  Everything else looks to be hot when the battery is turned on.

[cyclone]

Wow, thats great info,needs to go in a pdf and go into the maintenance section.

There's a lot of shenanigans going on with the accessories and the DECC wiring, and the programming of the different buttons. PLus, the info Rick posted about the relay numbers does not match the DECC wiring documentation. And, the reality is that no two boats accessory wiring are going to be the same, esp. after 20 years.

So, not sure how "turnkey" any solution can be. I am making a system to fix my specific issues, but I don't want to say I can produce a drop-in turnkey solution. One caveat is that the board I have uses 10 amp relays, so for certain circuits (hatch up/down) you'd have to use parallel relays, no big deal in the code to change that. How many boats out there have a power hatch or heater? not many. My heater has a hard wired switch, it's staying that way. I am not replacing the ballast controls or relays, all of that works fine.

I will eventually bring in the ballast level indicators and make a program to display them on the screen:)

[cyclone]

So, the system is installed and working, doesn't shut off or lose states or even lose the song I'm listening to on Youtube when I start/stop the boat. There are some app issues to work out, you can minimize it on the touch screen and bring it back, I want to add big buttons for that in the app. It's bright at night, so I want to add something for night mode, etc

It works like an absolute champ, must say. There is only minimal cutting of the dash needed, you could put the old panels back in no problem. I left the DECC in place and mounted the box where my worthless depth finder equpt was located, on the starboard foreward bulkhead, behind the foot panel. THere's room in the accessory harness to move it around where it makes sense.

Big progress, will have a system integrated together soon for you DIY'ers

[cyclone]

ok, i'm writin this post on the panel, while the button app runs in the background, while playing tunes off youtube, in the middle of the lake;) I'm building the second one for testing, then I will start producing them for sale.

[blindside]

That is AWESOME! Thank you for the update and for working so hard on this.

[cyclone]

OK, app is complete and works like a champ. System relay box can be installed in place of old Decc box, its a little bit longer and its also taller, so in my case I mounted it where my worthless depth finder hw was located.  The box has a stacked term strip on top and a + and - terminal like the original so you can just move the accessory plug and wires to the same terminals. there was plenty of length in the factory wiring harness to do this. I had to extend some of my self-installed accessory wiring, no big deal.

I am working on the install and operators manual, then I will offer the system for sale. I have a few more enhancements in the works as well.

I am

[Epic Dave]

I finished my switch panel project. While I considered Rick’s easy plug-and-play solution and waiting for Pete’s slick modern touch screen, I decided to make my own “factory” look with analog switches. Thanks to this forum, we have so many ideas/options for the few problems that these boats have.

Here are some pics of the new dash panel: