fresh water cooling system pics?

[cyclone]

Lowes has some cheap marine carpet that is a pretty close match to my Surf interior in my E22. It may be a little dark for my SX. It is 6.47 a sq yd.

[brad]

I've completed the install.  Here are some pic's.

You'll notice the red shower hose is connected to both heat exchange hoses that go to the exhaust manifolds.

Once the ice melts, I'll test everything out.

Since we just received 8 inches of snow a few days ago, it may be awhile.

[brad]

Some more pic's

[brad]

Last two.

[Ktown]

That is sweeeeeeeet!  The install looks great and I really like that you didn't have to give up the shower.  For future reference, how long did it take you and what was the total cost?  I will definitely be adding this to my upgrade list.

[wakejunky]

Thanks Brad
I appreciate you taking the time to get the pics. I do have a couple questions. When you mounted the aluminum bracket for the heat exchanger I noticed you had to drill into the side walls of the bilge, did you drill into the ballast tanks? I don't know if the tanks run that far back in our SX's? Guess I'm a little nervous. you had also mentioned you had contacted monitor about the shower. Did they suggest you tap into the hose for the exhaust manifolds? I was thinking about using the fresh water drain on the bottom of the heat exchanger as a way of tapping into heated water. Also any advise? things you would have done differently? Anything to watch out for?

The install looks great. glad to see they threw in the cover for the heat exchanger, gives it a nice factory look. I guess it would have been nice if they had also thrown in matching carpet.
Thanks again
Doug

[brad]

The install probably took me 10 hours or so.  Hard to judge since I spread it out over several days and made the occational run to the hardware and internet stores for miscellaneous hose, hose clamps, hose connectors, antifreeze ($20.00 - $40.00).  The kit costs $784.00 plus shipping from Capt Rick. 

I ended up cutting/modifying the shower hose box (cut the top off and moved it up), cutting/modifying the engine cover so it could fit around the fill cap and tube.

The test will be whether the shower is hot enough and whether the raw water flow is hindered by the shower and causes the exhaust manifolds to overheat.  I'm also wondering about the hoses themselves and how much heat they give off.  Will I need to reposition them since some are touching eachother?

When I mounted the aluminum bracket, I was worried about punching into the ballast tanks so I bought shorter screws.  Capt Rick suggested I use silicon as well.  When I pre-drilled, I noticed the side walls seem to be 1/4 inch thick.  In looking at the ballast diagrams, I think the tanks are back in that area.

Before I spoke with Monitor Products, my first idea was to tap the shower hose into the fresh water drain as well.  But they mentioned that the raw water makes 6 passes through the heat exchanger and that the drain is only on the third pass.  If I wanted the water hot, they recommended that I tap into the exhaust manifold hose.  I decided to tap into both exhaust manifold hoses instead of the one that I discussed with Monitor Products.

As far as things to watch out for... one of the outlets on the heat exchanger was oriented different than the instructions so I swapped some hoses around and bought another from the auto parts store to make it work.  When I got into it, I realized that the tapered insert for the thermostat goes all the way in (I think it blocks or bypasses the old system).  You add the antifreeze mixture into the throttle cap which was painted shut.  I also added the antifreeze mixture at a trickle since the opening is so small and has to release air as well.

Finally, it took a little trial and error to know where to cut the aft panel and how to orient the antifreeze reserve tank, shower pump, shower hose box and shower head controls.  It's a tight fit so hopefully everything will test out fine and I won't have to create air barriers around the hoses to avoid melting.  Make sure you have clearance from all the engine belts/moving parts.

[flyn2001]

That is sweet man!

[cyclone]

No doubt, nice job Brad! Looks to be a bit of a pain in the ass, I have just a taste of working on V drives, but have noticed that it's a drag compared to a simple D drive with the hump pulled off!

I'll probably do the same thing when I get an extra few bucks. Talk about peace of mind.

What do you have to do to winterize the system? I would prefer to make it so that there is one plug or fitting that could purge the whole fresh water part of the system. I want to be able to winterize very quickly because I plan on using the boat year round.

Could you take a pic looking down into the trunk from the top? I'm curious to see how far out that hump is, how much trunk space it takes up.

Thanks for all the great pics! We need more of you people to step up like Brad and take a few pictures of your boats when they are torn apart. We've all seen pics of them floating already;)

[brad]

One item of note, I used a 33.3% mixture of Antifreeze formulated with Dex Cool to water.  It took about 2 2/3 gallons to fill the system including the reserve tank.

Here are the trunk pic's.

[brad]

You're correct Pete, working on the engine back there is painful.  I won't comment on the positions I've been found in trying to reach or do something.  One of my goals was to limit those events (Not having to drain the engine is worth putting in the new system for me since it is so hard to reach the drain plugs on my SX).

To winterize, I'll still need to do the following to purge the raw water:

Drain Exhaust Manifolds
Drain the water pump (impeller)
Drain the Sea Strainer
Drain the shower
Drain the Heat Exchanger (drain plug on bottom end of heat exchanger - antifreeze drain is on bottom center)

Not sure about the oil cooler.

I won't need to drain the engine, thermostat or heater. 

If you figure out a way to purge the whole system with one plug or fitting, that would be awesome.

This system does shrink the trunk storage space.  I've used that space to store a kneeboard and a surfboard.  I'll probably only get the kneeboard in there now along with websuits, life jackets or empty fat sacks.  When I put an 800 lb fat sack back there, I felt it put too much weight in the back so now I only put fat sacks (400 lb) in each side engine compartment as well as up front in the walkway for wakesurfing.  In reviewing inland surfer's website, it looks like they put a 1300 lb custom fat sack on one side that runs from the engine side compartment up under the seats.  I'm still experimenting on fat sack placement to get the best wakesurfing wave.

[cyclone]

OK I gotcha. I thought that everything was running coolant, but not the waterpump/exhaust manifolds/shower. Duhhh. No I don't think there's a way to do that easily.

It does eat up trunk space. I'll wait on it for now, maybe buy the kit and keep it. My lake is very clean, my impellers are all still good, even the first one I pulled after 400 hrs:0

I will add a couple of sacks beside the engine. I'm going to add a system separate from the factory ballast. I may tie into the switches, and add one discrete rocker to switch the panel to control the factory or rear ballast system.

It sucks but a 750 in the walk through is the way I think I'll have to go. I hate that. There's just no room under the seats. I trailer, and more tongue weight is not good, so lead or pop bags won't work, don't want to move them every time.

[wakejunky]

parts update:

If you havent already purchased a fresh water kit you are SOL!

TMS is sold out of kits 

I hate posting bad news.

[brad]

You can probably construct your own kit with the help of Monitor Products.

Here are the hoses (number on the end is the Gates hose number):

MHO001110808   Hose,FWC,DD,WaterPumpToHeatExchanger,#21158
MHO001110809   Hose,FWC,DD&VD,TubularToThermostat,#21227
MHO001110810   Hose,FWC,DD&VD,TubularMiddleToThermostat,#21226
MHO001110811   Hose,FWC,DD&VD,TubularToHeatExchanger,#20267
MHO001110814   Hose,FWC,DD&VD,StbdExhaustToHeatExchanger,#21700
MHO001110815   Hose,FWC,DD&VD,PortExhaustToHeatExchanger,#21488
MHO001110816   Hose,FWC,DD&VD,48",ExpansionTankInLet/Outlet
MHO001110903   Hose,FWC,VDWaterPumpToHeatExchanger,#21351
MHO001110904   Hose,FWC,VD,DiverterAssemblyBottomToHeatExch,#21953
MHO001110905   Hose,FWC,VD,FillNeckAsblyToHeatExchanger,#20931
MHO001110906   Hose,FWC,VD,PortExhaustToHeatExchanger,#21391
MHO001110908   Hose,FWC,VD,TubularToHeatExchanger,1-1/2x22"
MHO001130401   Hose,FWC,DD,FillNeckBotToHeatExcha1'1/2"x12",w/Wire

[brad]

Here is the Heat Exchange Monitor Products, Inc. Part # M5278-4156.