Thermostat housing- Big Hole !

[elgringo-inaz]

OK, I just get on the lake to go for a joy ride this weekend and about 20 minutes into my ride I loose power and engine is cutting out.  I thought it was fuel filter as power would come and go.  Once at Marina and everyone off the boat, I lift the motor housing and see alot of water onboard.  I fire the motor again with housing open and water is spraying out a very large hole in the thermostat housing !  This boat has never seen salt water.  I can't believe the water alone ate a 1/4 inch plus hole right through the aluminum !!  Have you guys seen this before?? also, lots of calcium / mineral buildup on thermo and everywhere.

Where do I get a new one?  How can I flush out the cooling system?

Scott

[elgringo-inaz]

Power comming and going I think was cause there was so much water spraying around that the alternator was soaked.  Some electrical must have been wet or something.  I hope there is no further damage.  it was strange.  The boat has never been kept on the water.  ALways on trailer.  I had noticed paint peeling on the thermo housing but thought nothing of it.  weird.

[cyclone]

I pull mine off every year and have noticed a little corrosion. I think the amount has a lot to do with the water where you put the boat in. Might be alkaline or something.

You can get another housing, and you could probably JB weld the old one, that's what I'd try.

[elgringo-inaz]

Thanks Cyclone,

I have ordered a new one.  Just makes me wonder what else is corroding that badly.  Ouch.

Scott

[rustnrot]

I have had only a few years experience in the marine trade, but have been an engineer for decades (yes, I am that old).  I could not believe it when I found out these engines were offered without closed cooling.  EVERY other engine manufacturer for the marine industry that has ANY aluminum in the block or heads whatsover is closed cooled, standard equipment AFAIK.  When I saw the pictures of the engine that was take apart someone posted here a couple of months ago, I shuddered at the site of all the corrosion I saw.  They have special anti-freeze (the orange kind) for aluminum blocks for a reason--they are very sensitive to corrosion if the water chemistry is off, even slightly.  Lake water is not "pure" enough, never mind salt water.  Unfortunately, I predict more serious corrosion issues to come.  I think this is a good (bad) example of a car company trying to masquerade as a boat company......

[cyclone]

But, I look inside my block and see no corrosion to speak of. A little on the Tstat housing, but other than that?

You can get a closed loop cooiing system if you want, the kit from the factory is pretty slick I hear. I guess a lot of it depends where you run your boat. My impellers last 400 hrs. The water must not be too harsh on the internals on the lake that I use. I can't speak for other people, but I know what the insides of my water jackets look like.

I think they probably had much better alloys than US manufacturers had/have

[tenn162000]

I had VERY little corrosion in that part of the housing when i was winterizing.  As far as the rest of the engine goes I don't really know but will be finding out in the months to come.  I have found a toyota guy that is excited about working on my epic and together we have been inspired by those ireland guys and might even end up rebuilding the engine.  I am still hoping for something small but the engine started right up a few weeks ago- still no compression in one cylinder though so I haven't run the boat for more then 2 secs since this summer.   But I am planing on making to the EPIC ROUND UP this Summer reguardless!!! haha-  back to topic... IF we end up rebuilding - I be sure to take lots of pix but i haven't really spotted enough corrosion to eat though that much of the houseing... Maybe it was manufacturing flaw on your particular piece of tstat housing.  My epic only has 250ish hours though and its been in SC and TN only as far as I know. 

[cyclone]

I have considered buying up a closed loop cooling kit while they're available. I'd have to disable the shower, I'm told, but it would ensure the longest life for the engine. I intend to keep the boat until I croak. I betcha I could make the shower work.....

[elgringo-inaz]

Can I flush with a cleaner of some sort?? Is there a "how to" to flush/clean coooling system? This boat has 220 hours.  I am worried about the corosion now. 

Scott

[tenn162000]

CyClone- How Much Will a Closed Loop Kit Cost?    Have you check up on prices?   

[cyclone]

They were available recently from TMS. I think that all that are left are V drive models but they could be adapted to the D drive. I believe the price was around 750$

[brad]

Scott - can you post a pic of the hole?

I had loss of power once with water spaying in the engine compartment...forgot to put the drain plug in!

[Rambling Wreck]

check out the very bottom of initial post - picture is there.

[brad]

Thanks - I originally read the post without logging in and don't see the jpg file until I login.

[HCollado]

Maybe Capt Rick can tell us if more could be ordered for the D drive. Or at least tell us who Toyota bought them from...

I think we have a possible BIG issue here. Rustnrot  is right, these aluminum engines will develop a type of corrosion depending on the chemical unbalances of the water. After a while, we could see some overheating and other parts failing.