Dripless Shaft Seal

[bleems]

Just picked up an X22 from a good friend of mine who was active on this forum. The boat was already equipped with a dripless shaft seal when he purchased it. Its a PSS Shaft Seal (Made by PYI). According to their website, any boat that will travel faster than 12 knots, requires a seal to have a water line T-split from a raw water discharge back to the shaft seal. This boat does not have that line, nor has it ever. Instead, it has a plastic set screw in place of where a hose barb would normally go. This would be a normal set up for a boat under 12 knots. Where would you suggest the best place to tap in and split a line with a tee fitting would be? I'm thinking right after the sea strainer. PSS sells a T-kit in a variety of sizes. They have a 1 1/4 line that splits to a 3/8 line to feed the seal. Am I thinking correctly? This should be an acceptable spot to tap in, right?

I've looked into this because its dripping water from the plastic set screw. These set screws would be a normal application for a slower vessel and used to "burp" the seal if it gets an air pocket.


Absolutely no damage as far as I can tell. So its pretty amazing its gone 13+ years with no raw water line and the seal looks good as new.


Thanks!

[Capt Rick]

The transmission cooler has a 1/8 pipe drain fitting . But I would call the mfg and ask what is the cost of a bearing if it fails vs running a cooling ( lubrication ) line.

[bleems]

Thanks for the input! Are saying you wouldn’t add the cooling line? Am I missing where this would be a bad idea? Appreciate any input!

[cyclone]

Don't re-engineer your boat. Make sure that the shaft seal works, my two epics have worked since new with the stock prop shaft seal, just like tens of thousands of inboard ski boats have for the last 30 years.

Follow the instructions on the Maintenance page of the site and in the Toyota manual. TIghten it until it leaks 1 drop per sec while shaft is turning at slow speed, no leak when in neutral. If it leaks more, tighten the seal and move the cotter pin to secure it. If you can't get it to meet the spec, repack it per the instructions.

Life is not a series of instructions from the imperial government. Live a little. They are not really in charge of you.

[bleems]

This already had the dripless shaft seal installed before I purchased it.  I’m not replacing it.

[Wet-N-Frugal]

To lubricate my PSS Shaft Seal, I tapped into the Shower Cold water line. It was right there and easy to tee into.

http://www.epicmarine.com/forum/index.php?topic=1674.msg14858#msg14858

[wakejunky]

Here is a great way to install it. It will then serve two very useful purposes. Thread a barb fitting into the drain plug of each exhaust manifold. Put a hose from one manifold fitting to the other. Then cut the hose in half in the center or lowest point. Add a "T" fitting, then use that line for the water line to the PSS. Not only does it cool the PSS it will also drain your manifolds every time you pull the boat out of the water. The less time you have standing water in your manifolds (in most cases all of summer) the longer they will last and it makes it that much easier to winterize. I hated my Axis/Malibu boat ,but it was a genius way to accomplish two things.