Timing belt this weekend went, well, all weekend. Besides the time required, it really was easy due in part to having done our Sequoia’s 2UZ a couple years ago. A few things procedurally different from the auto version but nothing big. Same kit, by the way. Most time consuming thing was treating corrosion, priming and repainting a number of locations on the various brackets you pull off. Also primed and painted the exposed portions of the water pump housing.
Used Rustoleum self-etching primer and VHT high temp engine enamel. Not sure if it’s the best in terms of longevity, but they sure were a pleasure to apply. The top coat filled in nicely without sagging and was able to handle within minutes. Looks great, just no idea how long it will stay on.
The corrosion was a bummer. Based on how my 21-year old 22R-E and 13-year old 2UZ aluminum is fairing…I tend to believe the black paint applied to the M1UZ hurt the problem, not helped it. Flaking paint traps water, and voila – corrosion. Just my two cents. Also took the opportunity to sand down and repaint some OEM paint buildup on the 'used to be a fan-belt pulley' and the drive belt tensioner. New paint’s doing good so far.
I’ve always been bummed by paint flaking off the plastic and rubber parts, so removed it from the plastic covers and the hoses in the area. Looks great.
Another bummer was the amount of mineral deposits inside the cooling passages. The Sequoia and even pickup were super clean do to closed coolant systems. This, well, not so much. Hopefully just a Lake Havasu thing. Neither vinegar or some Oxalic acid (used on the teak) took a bit from it. Will have to do some more reading on that, because it's fairly unsettling.
Just an FYI, here are some pics of the TDC and cam/crank to belt alignment marks after installing the new belt, and a pic of the Aisin kit I installed. It’s not totally dealership, but think it’s all real good quality. Also stuck in a pic of the drive belt part number I got at Toyota, which fits really nicely.
For the collective's record, I copied down the stencil from the OEM timing belt (very hard to get a picture of): TOYOTA 13568-50020 > 211S8M34 H NBR > C107 D05 M9163 (M9160, M9161, M9162, etc. +/- a few looks like how they keep track belt by belt).
Remember to get the Toyota form in place gasket black goo. Mucho better than that from your local Oreilly. In my head, anyway.
This belt was done at ~615 hours and 15 years. Late like the Sequoia (which was done somewhere like 150K and nine-ten years, when 90K's required), the old belt showed no signs of stress, and more pliable than the new one. Maybe a tiny bit lighter. No noticable buildup of belt dust within the timing belt space, although there was externally from the drive belt.
Timing belt, idler, tensioner bearing & tensioner, drive belt, impeller, plugs, fluids and filter…and the front of the engine looks great even before touching up the bolt heads with black paint (plan to use q-tip to blot them black). Also refinished the teak and its mounts…but that’s another topic.
Still my go-to procedure:
http://m3pink.blogspot.com/2010/11/changing-it-up-toyota-land-cruiser-2uz.html?m=1 Note torques are all on like three pages in the M1UZ manual in the cooling section.
My last hanging chads are the thermostat gasket and the o-ring that sits right beside it in the thermostat housing. Both got encroached on by lake deposits and since they're now a bit hard, I'd like to replace them. Thermostat is not the same size as the Sequoia. No leaks yesterday, but they're easy to change and I'll do some hunting.
