S22 running hot? New T stat, water pump & impeller...

[jwilcox]

I just did the T belt, water pump, t stat and impeller.

I actually did the impeller last season. The temps seem to have climbed a little last summer. It would hang right at 160 when I first got the boat. Summer wore on temps kinda went up, changed the impeller and it still was a little over 160, not much higher. The boat seems to be running even hotter now, I am running the Stant 14077 which is what I have seen recommended around here.

The temp needle is getting up to the hash just before the 240 degrees sometimes at idle. Once we I get going again it will drop down. It won't do it consistently.

I have checked the sea water filter, where else should I check out?

Thanks!

[Sammamish Skier]

Though unusual for our boats, it's possible that the exhaust headers are clogged. How warm is the exhaust water, is there a good volume? If you put your hand on a non seamed section of the risers with the engine warmed and running can you keep your hand there? The risers should be warm but not hot if they aren't clogged.  One other thing to check is your raw water pump back plate worn? Wear on the plate can cause the pump to not work properly

[breakawaydaze]

On a previous epic21 I had, there was a grounding issue with the gauges.  If I recall the temperature gauge would go up slightly if there was another load on the electrical system.  You may want to observe the gauge while you turn on an off your engine compartment blower.  Your water temp problem may have nothing to do with the water temp but more to do with the gauge..

[Capt Rick]

If you can touch the riser on the manifolds and loose a skin layer it too hot!!!

or remove hose at front of manifold and run in a bucket to see how much water you get at 1000 rpm and each side.


Capt Rick

[jwilcox]

The exhaust water is actually quite hot from what I recall during our last trip. The boat sits outside during the year and there are a lot of birds, but I don't see how one could of climbed up the one exhaust vent port with the flap over it. It is possible though?

I am pretty sure the gauge is accurate, I am very sensitive to temp changes and when I pull open the back cover for the engine to grab a rope or jacket is definitely warmer than I ever recall so I know the engine is running hotter.   

I will have to take it out again and feel the risers. What exactly do they look like?

What does wear on the water plate look like- one that is in spec vs. one that is not?

Thanks!

Next step will be to pull off the exhaust hoses and see how much water is flowing? Can I do this with a fake a lake?

As for the impeller

[formerathlete]

The risers are the metal exhaust manifold pipes that rise up before connecting to rubber exhaust pipes, if that's what you were asking.

Hopefully someone else knows what the water plate wear would look like, I don't. 

As for pulling off the exhaust hoses while on the fake a lake, I would first run it on the fake a lake and see what kind of volume you have coming out the back. If it's minimal, then I would disconnect hoses up near the T-stat housing and have bucket handy to pour into. If it's blocked or low flow there, then just go upstream until you find the blockage, disconnecting hoses and placing into bucket as you go.  Do you know if it's ever blown up an impeller that needed to be changed? Maybe there are chunks of old impeller pieces blocking a hose downstream from the impeller?

Bizarre.

Good luck

[Sammamish Skier]

Found a good image/description of the back plate wear

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/impeller

[jwilcox]

Hooked up the fake a lake - and previously it would shoot a burst of water out every few seconds. Now just a slight drizzle and at 1500 rpm almost nothing. Risers got too hot to touch.

My first guess is the impeller although I’ve already replaced it.

What hoses should I be checking for flow and in what order?

Thanks.

[Capt Rick]

Sounds like you are sucking air from either a hose or transmission cooler bad? 
try running a hose into one of the cooler on vdrive between clear strainer.
send me picture

Capt Rick
toyotav8bt@aol.com

[jwilcox]

I think I found the issue, there is a shower hookup and one of the hoses wasn't connected and I think it was sucking in air... Which would cause problems. Capped it. 

Now it is pushing more water out of the exhaust and every once in a while burps out more than the stream so... fingers crossed it is working properly... Taking it to the lake to find out....

[calii311soca]

I ended up buying the Toyota TRD thermostat that runs a bit cooler than the stock ones. Also, when I hook up the fake-a-lake it isn't consistent water coming out the exhaust. You can hear it burping maybe every 10 seconds.

Oh, and I can vouch for touching the risers. I blew a belt out on the lake, causing an overheat. I used the riser to brace myself as I kneeled down to inspect the motor. Mistake.

[jwilcox]

Took it out this morning, heated up once but could never get it to heat up again. I am starting to wonder about the gauge... Risers are cool and so are the hoses so....

Thanks for everyone's help!

[cyclone]

It's always good to check all of the connections after de-winterizing. Start at sea strainer and make sure it's clean and no water leaks. Check the Vdrive cooler and trans coolers for leaks, loose fittings. Heater hoses at tstat, water pump, oil cooler, heater/shower.
Check the block drains and the freeze plugs. I have had a freeze plug (its actually a plate) leak once, I took it off, banged it flat with a hammer and reinstalled with permatex, no probs. They are attached with 2 machine screws.

Any air leak in any of the above components will cause cooling issues, unstable temp readings.